An unassuming restaurant space on Western Avenue holds a dual legacy in the culinary history of Los Angeles.
About 45 years ago, this location pioneered the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue format. It also gave rise to the cross-cut short rib now famous worldwide as L.A. Galbi.
The origins of the unlimited format
Originally operating as Cheong Wun Buffet, the restaurant introduced an unlimited refill model for Korean barbecue.
Diners could select from an array of raw meats and side dishes to cook at their own tables. This approach helped establish the all-you-can-eat format.
It has since become a cornerstone of the local dining scene, with countless similar establishments adopting the model across the city.
The birth of an iconic dish
Beyond the unlimited format, the exact same location is tied to the creation of one of the most recognizable dishes in modern Korean cuisine.
According to co-owner Daniel, the restaurant’s early operators adapted traditional Korean beef ribs to American beef butchery practices.
Instead of the traditional thick cut, they utilized a lateral cut straight across the bone. This adaptation produced a thinner, cross-cut short rib that cooked quickly on the table grills.
Known technically as a lateral cut short rib, the preparation became universally recognized as L.A. Galbi.
From its origins in this dining room, the specific style of rib went on to become an iconic Korean barbecue dish around the world.
Continuing the legacy today
Today, the culinary history of the original Cheong Wun Buffet continues under new signage. The historic site at 944 N Western Ave now operates as MJD Korean BBQ.
The spot continues serving the exact same all-you-can-eat format and cross-cut ribs it helped introduce decades ago.
