SoCal has historically been one of the world’s premier surfing destinations, attracting everyone from first-time wave riders to elite professionals. This week, however, the coastline is experiencing a rare ocean event that only happens once or twice a year.
A powerful south swell generated by storms in the Southern Hemisphere began on Tuesday and is expected to linger through at least Friday, according to the National Weather Service. The phenomenon is expected to peak on Wednesday along the beaches of L.A., Orange, and San Diego counties.
The historic swell has sent massive waves crashing into beaches across the region, drawing thousands of spectators and experienced surfers. Newport Beach’s famous Wedge has been the center of attention, with waves reaching 10 to 15 feet and some sets exceeding 20 feet during an event Surfline described as “one of the biggest in the last decade.”
What is a swell?
A swell is a series of ocean waves generated by distant storms, often thousands of miles away. Unlike locally generated wind waves, swells can travel across entire ocean basins while maintaining their energy.
As the long-period swell reached SoCal, unique coastal features amplified its size, particularly at The Wedge, where reflected waves from the harbor jetty combine with incoming surf to create unusually large breakers, as Fox 11 reports.
How to stay safe during the swell
Officials are urging beachgoers to admire the spectacle from dry sand, warning that large swells create dangerous rip currents. Anyone caught in a rip current should remain calm, float, and swim parallel to the shore rather than directly against the current.
Meanwhile, visitors remaining on land should avoid standing on rocks, jetties, piers, and shoreline structures where unexpected waves can easily knock people into the ocean. Experts also recommend that only highly experienced surfers and swimmers enter the water while the swell remains active.
